Leaving the Dragon

Tiananmen

Unsurprisingly, our last week in China was the one we enjoyed the most. Having finally adjusted, as much as we were ever going to, to the behavioural and cultural idiosyncrasies of this bizarre eastern giant, we spent a trouble free few days in Beijing and Shanghai.

In Beijing, a city the size of Belgium, we had many memorable moments. We visited gallery openings at Beijing 798, an emerging Chinese arts community spanning more than 20 city blocks, where we saw installations, graffiti, photography and a much hyped generation of Chinese celeb artists smoking cigarettes in uber cool arts cafes.


Rosy cheeks

Away of such artsy circles, our hippie like appearance continues to intrigue. In response to the beard, in general, men stare in contempt (or awe, we're not quite sure which, possibly both), women giggle nervously, and children scream in absolute terror. One particular young boy, on board a recent train, came sneaking up to Sami to gawk at the facial hair, for a few seconds - then run screaming down the carriage crying (to the amusement of the whole carriage). Once consoled by his laughing mother, he'd bravely return, drying his tears as he waddled back towards the freak show. Then again, after his little fix of weirdness, he'd burst into tears and run away in fear. The poor child was obviously caught between two of the most powerful human instincts - curiosity and survival.


Choppers

We also visited the world famous Forbidden City, a walled World Heritage Site adjacent to Tiananmen Square, which till 1912 was home to highly protected Chinese dynasties. For 500 years this area was out of bounds for commoners, only servants and concubines let in to do their thing. This place, as you can imagine, is full of stunning buildings with equally stunning gardens. The buildings have names like 'the Palace of Tranquil Longevity' and 'the Hall of Mental Cultivation', a legacy, perhaps, from many bored afternoons by imperial royalty.

Then, of course, The Great Wall, which was indeed great. And very beautiful too. Snaking across misty blue mountain ridges as far as the eye can see, it more than lives up to its reputation. With 10 000 watch towers over 6350 kilometers this ancient brick divider rises and falls through valleys and peaks, once upon a time warding off evil Mongols and Manchurians.

Although we only completed a 10 kilometer stretch, our legs too scrawny from years of sitting on comfy TV sofas, it was long enough to appreciate this unique construction. For further excitement, as we neared the place where our giant tour bus awaited, we zip-lined across a deep ravine to ground level and a few well deserved drinks.


Forbidden city

After Beijing we headed straight to Shanghai. Seeing as we'd had more than our fair share of uncensored hardship aboard rural Chinese trains, we invested in two luxurious sleeper tickets on the exclusive Beijing-Shanghai Express, an experience worthy of every Yuan spent.

This overly indulgent leg was by far the finest train experience that either of us has ever had. Classical music, soft red carpet, a small tube of complimentary tooth paste, you name it. It felt like the Concorde flew again. A train journey the way train journeys were meant to be. The attendants was attentive, synchronized to the second via flashy headsets, and fellow passengers smiled politely and wore deodorant. The 12 hours to Shanghai felt like 12 minutes.

Once in Shanghai the decadence didn't stop. Our good friend Ben showed us the suave circles of China's young expat community, which was introduced to us at an 88th floor champagne birthday party.

Amidst open air Jacuzzis, built high above the cloud cover, we mingled with an alpha breed of the corporate food chain - investment bankers, advertising managers, executive wine merchants, all very attractive, interesting and confident. Over miniature spring rolls and well rehearsed swapping of business cards, we small talked about politics, career moves and exactly how much free booze would compensate for a 100 hour work week.

Everyone got mighty drunk, of course, and enjoyed themselves thoroughly. The grinning birthday boy, inevitably, got thrown into the jacuzzi. As the evening wore on and the free bar ran out, we took the speeding elevators down to ground level, back to where the mortals live.


Temple light

All in all, as our Chinese experience has shown us, there are two sides to every story, sometimes more. There's the past, the future, the old and the new. From the very poor to the very wealthy, controversy and opportunity. As such, China can be amazingly wonderful and beautiful, as well as incredibly selfish and polluted.

It's a place where you can do anything you want, as long as it's been preapproved by the government. Soon the Olympics will be here, the ultimate opportunity to show off modern China to the rest of the world.

For the most part, the China we've experienced has been positive and altogether a real pleasure. We just hope it can stay that way.

Thank you, China. Take care of yourself.

Next, Japan.


Lady in red