Dive pix

En route


Getting ready


Subaqua Mere


Baby fish playgrounds


Prickly buddies, Lion Fish and Sea Urchins


Stopping for lunch, between dives


Underwater hillside


Blue Blob coral


Strange

Lovely Koh Lipe

Tung, our faithful boat driver

What a difference a day makes. From the busy, developed shores of Malaysian Langkawi we arrived in Koh (Thai for island) Lipe (pronounced 'Lee-Pay'), just north of the Thai-Malay border. This stunning little Thai island is home to less than a thousand inhabitants and luckily, for us, is still in its early stages of gringofication.

As our slightly listing ferry pulled in to the main beach of Pataya (that means about 6 places to stay and 8 bars) we transferred to a local 'Longtail' boat for the last 200 meters. Once on the beach we were greeted by the local Thai customs delegation - a smiling woman in board shorts and tank top. After a very casual signing in process (in a beach bar) and a small donation towards the upkeep of the place, we walked across the island to find our best yet accommodation of our trip - a beautiful and comfortable bamboo hut right on the beach, complete with a picturesque hammock and open air bathroom.


Post Tsunami signage

As part of 51 pristine mountainous islands of the Tarutao National Park, situated some 70 kilometers from the mainland, Koh Lipe has an interesting history. In 1939 it had a prison built on it, but due to lack of supplies during the second world war both prisoners and guards became a feared group of pirates. After the British restored order and the pirates were dispersed, the current locals (descendants of Sea Gypsies) permanently settled down here.

Since then it has slowly developed to what it is today, a relaxed beach destination with sarong shops, massage parlours and smoothie huts. During the day groups of kids play on the beach, unambitious shop keepers laze in their hammocks and the few travellers mooch from beach to lunch and back. When night falls a few distant generators kick in to provide precious electricity and people gather by the beaches for another round of cocktails.


Cocktail hour, again

On our second day we decided to take advantage of the rare variety of marine life here, and did two Scuba dives with a local dive shop. Since the proper Scuba boat had a "tired engine", we took a couple of noisy Longtails (powered by giant cluttering truck engines, as they are apparently easier to maintain) to the dive site, a good hour away.

As we pulled in to the site and the heroic dive instructor put his wetsuit on, an angry looking scorpion wandered out of his neoprene sleeve towards his bare chest. He flapped about with his arms like a nine year old girl and desperately flipped the scorpion into the water, to everyone's amusement. Could have been the sequel to Snakes On A Plane. Scorpions On A Boat. That would rock.

The first dive, in the powerful current between two large islands, was down to 17 meters and showed us lots of pretty corals and ominous abandoned fish pots (unfortunately still catching fish). Our second one, after a yummy curry and water melon lunch on a nearby beach, was even better. Holding both our regulators and masks we fell back into the inviting waters at another nearby island.

Our ever-smiling Greek diving instructor swam with us (and our other dive buddy, 30 year old 'Pru' from Stoke Newington) around the headland to a max depth of about 23 meters. Huge schools of fry and other brave little fish surroundeded us as we cruised weightlessly in the current over Stone fish, Lion fish and a variety of colourful giant shells. And when we had used most of our tanks we ascended slowly, to a timed stop, of course, to meet with our waiting boat.

Yesterday we snorkelled around another island and saw sting rays, squid and some vicious looking sea urchins. All in all, a lovely introduction to the marine habitat of Asia. Afterwards we both felt like we should do more diving, eventually perhaps one day doing some more advanced PADI qualifications.


Lovely jubbly

Today is our massage day and we're both looking forward to lying motionless for a while, our faces comfortably wedged in cushioned holes (hrm, perhaps they can arrange for our books to be readable and our cocktails to be drinkable with a straw).

Tomorrow we'll need to tear ourselves away from Koh Lipe in order to make some time for Bangkok and the north of Thailand. A difficult thing to do when you've found such a likeable place. But if we don't leave now, we may never do.

Lounging in Langkawi

Stunning

According to the brochures about Langkawi, it's a paradise you won't visit just once. Either you never make it here at all, or you keep coming back for more. Having just spent the night in a beach front hut, with gentle turquoise waves lapping a powder-fine palm lined beach, we can understand the slight over statement.

With some 99 individual Paulus (islands) and a population of 65 000 (same as Bermuda) and a landmass of 475 square kilometers, it has a remarkable number of reasons to visit. Not only is it a designated tax free zone, it also has a rich bird life, an alligator park, several golf courses, outstanding diving, waterfalls, reefs and a long list of other attractions.

Unfortunately, as so often is the case, such a powerful draw comes with a heavy price. A huge number of foreign visitors (like us...) detract from what would otherwise have been a real paradise. As you lift your eyes momentarily from your book, perhaps to re-apply some sun block and gaze out over the dramatic coastline, you suddenly see a couple of fat middle aged Germans in oh-so-tight leopard print speedos bouncing along on bright rental Jet skis, their wrinkly over-tanned wives desperately clinging on to their colossal bright pink beer guts. Look behind you and you see rows of tacky resort hotels, all boasting to be the best value for money and gaggles of Scandinavian teenagers drunkenly staggering from bar to bar, clearly thrilled to, at last, be done with university. Damn it, one cannot escape the feeling that had one should have visited this place long ago.


Traditional fishing boat

Having said that, Langkawi is still a beautiful place. Last night we had one of our top three meals of our travels so far, a fusion of African, Asian and Western cuisine. Mere had spicy prawns, which took a good half hour to free from their intricate shells, Chia-ti (our recent travel buddy) had an outstanding pumpkin soup and Sami gave in to his first Sirloin Steak. Afterwards we walked along the moonlit beach until we came upon an improvised reggae bar, with tiki torches for lights and old sails for blankets. Over some watery Tiger beers (less than $1) and a distant lightening storm, we discussed the perils of American foreign policy and the impending presidential elections. That was, until a sudden monsoon shower ended the night and forced us to flee along the beach back to our wooden hut. Seems Langkawi ain't too bad after all.

The way of the Malays

Friendly locals

As first impressions go, Malaysia offers a mixed bag. Barely 48 hours into our Malay time and two very bouncy late night bus rides later, we've made our way up the East coast of Malaysia (Peninsular Malaysia, as opposed to Malaysian Borneo) via Melaka to Paulu Penang.

Melaka, a strangely small big town (some 648 500 inhabitants, yet it feels like Catford), at first, made no sense. Upon arrival, neither of us understood the reasons as to why tens of thousands of visitors allegedly flock here every year, to an utterly charmless, drab little town. But, as the locals told us, historically it was once a great trading port and as such grew increasingly important. Also, having been ruled by the Dutch, Portuguese, English etc it has had many influences and is thus dear to many hearts.

Alas, the next morning, after exploring the old town center on foot, we understood the attraction a little better. Antique shops, bohemian coffee bars and quaint oriental postcard-worthy streets are everywhere and smirking doods with ornamented bike taxis patiently show foreigners around.


Funky bike dood

Our super friendly hostel manager, Lee, kindly lent us money, since the good old muppets at BNTB hadn't done their job of unlocking our bank cards... Later, upon seeing a travel sketch book, he asked Sami for a drawing on the kitchen wall.


Lee and Sami, in the hostel kitchen in Melaka

Still, after all that, we were glad to leave Melaka, taking the overnight luxury bus to Penang. A trademark crazy-violent Asian action movie kept us awake until the Melatonin kicked in.

Georgetown, the town on Penang, evidently peaked many years ago, too. But still lots of interesting travellers choose to stop by. Over breakfast we met a super cool New Yorker who, when not travelling, teaches abused NY teenagers self respect through the unconventional means of yoga, poetry and, eventually, Thai massage. Way to go, lady. Good on ya.


Straight of Penang, as seen from the harbour light house

As a whole, Malaysia has been, from what we've seen so far, a beautiful, smelly and enigmatic melting pot. Buddhists, Catholics, Muslims and Hindus mix together to make for a vibrant, if odd, place. Layers of worn off paints make such colourful mosaics on house walls that it's easy to forget that the building is about to collapse.

Opposing religions seem to be strangely tolerant of each other and shops offer products in several languages. Tamils are everywhere and the limited phrases we learnt in Sri Lanka have gone a long way. Wide open storm drains are everywhere (Singaporians would have a stroke if they saw the state of these pavements), and architecture is promiscuous to say the least. Most picturesque of all, wrinkly old pensioners sit off in the shade under verandas and graciously wave hello.

Our next stop, for which we'll leave early tomorrow morning, will be the popular Island(s) of Langkawi, where we hope to see some sharks, waterfalls and perhaps even rent us a pair of scooters. After some well deserved R&R we'll eventually venture across the border into Thailand.

Piña Colada - a pathetic excuse of a cocktail

Gross

Someone, please explain. How on Earth can otherwise innocent sounding ingredients like strained Pineapple juice, Light rum and Coconut cream, together create such a vile tasting drink? And, hey, if you knew, why didn't you warn us about it?

A few days ago, as we wheeled our wooden loungers closer to the pool, after a particularly stressful debate about suntan lotion, we proceeded to order a pair of Margaritas. Seeing as they have always been the perfect start to a perfect afternoon, we were disappointed to hear that the bartender didn't have the ingredients to make them.

'Ok, no worries, so what can you offer instead?' we asked, taking it in our stride.
'Piña Coladas', came the very leading answer.

Foolishly, in our thirsty afternoon optimistism, we accepted.

'Sure, thanks, we'll have two.'

If you've never had one, here's a summary: rancid pale baby vomit, luke warm, part-fermented pineapple juice, carefully blended with a backwash of cheap rum. Worst of all, it comes cunningly camouflaged with a cute little cocktail umbrella and a pineapple ring.

So, a word of advice to those of you who haven't had the misfortune of having ordered one:

Don't.

Singapore - the cleanest place on Earth

Squeaky clean, busy streets

Arrived in Singapore, possibly the cleanest, most organised and efficient place in the universe. It's so clean one would happily eat off the floor in the underground stations. The famous country wide chewing gum ban (it's listed under banned substances, before drugs, at the airport, although that may have been alphabetical...) produces impeccably clean streets. In fact, the most atrocious public display of disorder and destruction we've seen was a partly broken pavement slab in a backstreet in Chinatown.


Yes'aaai; a shout out to our West Side homies

More importantly than cleanliness, everything works. The underground is well organised, runs on time and uses an obvious $1 incentive for returning your old tickets. Crosswalks have large countdowns of green man seconds left, currency notes are plasticoated, so one can forget them in the wash, and there are public escalators everywhere, even if only to save a few steps. All in all, to free spirited liberals like ourselves, Singapore could be a convincing argument for the virtues of a strict police state. Then again, the clinical air of this place does lack some of that real human grittiness.


Mostly vertical

Being a tinsy winsy teeny weeny country, everything is built up. Literally. Our budget hostel is situated in the penthouse on the 25th floor of a skyscraper. The view is so great it almost makes up for the terrible breakfast.


Post boxes, like bins, are painted by different artists

This afternoon we're taking the train North, into Malaysia. Yey, can't wait...

New year, new photos

Procession at one of the many wedding parties


Evening view at one of our hotels


Initial stage of henna tattoos, as it still soaks into the skin


Remnants of colonial days, next to temple


Spicy food, we love you, we really do, yum yum yum


Pool break for recently engaged wedding guests Ella and Glyn


Traditional dancer with flower petals for showering the bride and groom


Cigarette break for Colombo street vendor

Last drink in Sri Lanka

Tonight is the birthday of Leah, and as such, of course, there will be another occasion to celebrate. Tonight is also when we leave this island. At least for now. Since we fly out right after midnight, we'll leave straight from the party.

Thank you Sri Lanka, you sweet little island. You've been good to us.

Next stop, Singapore.

A week of wedding parties

Sri Lankans really do take their weddings seriously. Only now, a week after the beginning of Lee and Leah's wedding festivities, have the speeches, drinking and dancing started to subside. It started with a terrific Mehindi, a lively evening ritual (party) to celebrate the bride and decorate her hands with Henna tattoos (the groom got some too, as did pretty much everyone else).

Hundreds of guests gathered in the beautiful courtyard of the bride's parents house and the hastily rehearsed dance turned out to be a great success, if only due to much laughing from the audience.

Then, a few days later, followed a stunning beach wedding for 250 people on the breezy South Eastern coast, complete with a delicious 3 course dinner, great speeches and unashamed dancing till the wee hours.

Barely had the hips stopped gyrating when it was time to dance again. Last night, to top it all off, another massive gathering, this time with many of the elite of the Country, at a posh country club outside Colombo. The bride and groom arrived to the Club house along the lit 18th hole of the golf course, in an elephant procession with dancers, drummers and fire jugglers. Quite an entrance into the local high society. A few too many strawberry cocktails and a gut busting buffet later we took a cab home.

If the festivities of the wedding are an indication of what's to come for the marriage, then they'll have a great future together. Congratulations.

Suba aluth aurudak veva

That's Sinhalese for Happy New Year. A phrase that thousands of drunken party people repeated enthusiastically as they staggered around Hikkaduwa beach on New Years Eve.

We ordered another round of Arrack Sours, to the clashing beats of consecutive sound systems and watched a several kilometer long thrilling display of highly unsafe fireworks (they guy next to us took a misfired screamer right to the stomach). As a good sport, he laughed it off and toasted in the new year. Wow, dude. That's the spirit.

Hours later we continued, with a large happy crowd of Lee and Leah's wedding guests, to Mambo, another beach bar, to drink some more Lion beers. Eventually we ended up where we had started our evening, at a famous roadside Roti place, and enjoyed some scrumptious banana chocolate pancakes. All in all, a very pleasant and memorable evening to welcome the new year.